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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, nestled high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.